To see the greatness of a mountain, one must keep one’s distance; to understand its form, one must move around it; to experience its moods, one must see it at sunrise and sunset, at noon and at midnight, in sun and in rain, in snow and in storm, in summer and in winter and in all the other seasons. – Lama Anagarika Govinda: The Way of the White Clouds. From just to the west of Darchen, we had a good view of the two sets of high cliffs forming the Lha Chu valley.